Mt. Kenya Technical Climbing

Technical Climbing:

The prime attraction for rock climbers and mountaineers are the twin peaks of Nelion (5188) and Batian (5199 m). Below these peaks are a complexity of fields of scree and ice, ridges, walls and couloirs, which offer high standard technical rock and ice routes of about 640 to 1190m in length at an altitude of more than 4420m above sea level. Although accurate grading is impossible due to variable seasonal and meteorological conditions, climbs are graded according to the technical difficulties they pose. About half of the climbs are Alpine Grade V and IV. Under Prime conditions, some of the routes are easier while under bad conditions, a route may be a grade or more harder. There are two major technical rock and ice climbing routes on Mt. Kenya; the North face standard route of Batian and the Normal South East face of Nelion route.

(i) North face standard route of Batian

This route starts from Kami Hut taking the path leading to the trekkers Summit (Pt. Lenana.) The climbing season for this route is July to September when it takes approximately 10 hours to climb the 1,100 m of a technically grade IV slope. Possible to use it during other months but due to the heavy snow and wet conditions it is harder, Grade V( 5.8 American). It has been done solo for many times but when out of season, though still possible, it calls for more use of crampons and ice hammer especially for those climbers intending to go across the gates of mist route. Care should be taken especially when crossing the Lewis glacier and scrambling to the base. The route has some distinct climbing ropes, which have been left as route markers.

(ii) South East Face Nelion Route:

It is most commonly used between January to March when it is designated as grade IV. It starts from Austrian Hut, up Point Nelion across the Diamond couloir and the gates of Mist to Point Batian. It takes 6 hours to climb the 700 m. On the way to Nelion you bypass Howell Hut.

(iii) Ice routes:

Most commonly used ice routes on Mt. Kenya are Diamond Colouir and the Ice Window. The two climbs are approached from the American Camp and Two Tarn hut respectively. Most climbers prefer to bivouac at the base of the Darwin glacier. Their best season to climb is June to October but the weather pattern has been so unpredictable of late and hence predicting the best season for climbing isn't accurate. Climbers are advised to contact the Mountain Club of Kenya for an update on conditions.